The winch

Although I want to built this vehicle to be able to climb over most things there will undoubtedly come a time when forward progress - or progress in ay direction for that matter - becomes impossible. This is when a winch comes in handy.

 I managed to obtain an ex-electricity board Fairey hydraulic drum winch that was fitted on a 110. This is a PTO winch with a hydraulic motor attached. Unfortunately the pump and PTO mechanism was designed to fit the LT77 gearbox  as found in a 110, rather than a Series box. I ended up exchanging the pump for a fairly complete series IIa Land Rover.

While helping a local farmer, I noticed a derelict combine harvester rotting quietly in a corner. After digging a lot of assorted junk out of the way I found that it had a belt driven hydraulic pump. The farmer said I could have the pump if he could borrow my arc welder for a couple of weeks. That is the sort of price I like! It will either be mounted on the engine with a belt drive or driven directly off the crank with a dog clutch. The fan belt already has to drive the 100A alternator/welder and the power steering so putting another load on it could cause problems..

The most common place to fit a winch is on the front bumper but this has several disadvantages:
The winch sticks out the front and restricts the approach angle.If you dive nose-first into a bog then the winch is the first part of the vehicle to get buried.
Winches are heavy and mounting all that weight right out on the front puts quite a strain on the suspension.
You usually get stuck when driving forwards. With a front mounted winch your only option is to pull yourself further into the muck.

A front mounted winch is ideal if you do actually want to pull yourself deeper into the muck, or if you want to pull someone else out.

Mounting the winch on the rear tends to affect the load space and is no use if you want to winch forwards. Some people have two winches, one at the front and one at the rear. This is nice but a lot of extra weight and cost. My solution is to mount the winch in the middle. The winch will sit under the floor just behind the rear bulkhead, facing backwards. The cable will then go round a removeable pulley block mounted in the rear crossmember, round a guide pulley and along the left hand chassis rail and out the front. To winch forwards the cable is pulled out the front and used in the same way as a front mounted winch. To winch backwards the cable is secured to the front of the vehicle and the pulley block is pulled out the back. This is an idea copied from the Foers Ibex The down side is that there is more chance of the cable getting tangled up due to the rather tortuous path it takes.

I have held the winch in place on the donor vehicle's chassis and there is just enough room if I raise the floor of the rear load space by about 2". The cable will go past the left hand engine mount with approx 1/4" of clearance

Winch with cable routeWinch with cable route

The white flex gives you an idea of how the cable will be routed. The cable will run over a pulley to make sure it clears the exhaust. As in these pictures the winch will be at a slight angle to the crossmember. This is so that the cable meets the drum at as close to 90 degrees as possible. The red handle on the winch will be shortened and operated with a push-pull cable from the cab.

The hydraulic spool valve has a push pull cable remote. The spool will be mounted in the cab with the remote on the right hand wing.